We
stepped into Pepenero and saw an empty table. Owner Paolo politely told us that
even though he will keep it for us, it would be better for us to come back in
half an hour.
Why?!
He
then apologetically explained that the kitchen was small, and they made
everything fresh on order, so they needed time to serve guests who were still
waiting. True enough, though there were only 3 other groups in the small
restaurant, many of them hadn't eaten.
Well
anyway, it was a casual Friday night on a resort island, waiting was not a
problem. We requested to simply sit at our table and until he's ready to come to
us.
 |
|
Menu bound on the heaviest piece of solid wood you can
find. This menu will break your toes if you drop it
accidentally. |
Oh,
and Paolo was nursing a broken leg. He didn't even need to be here. Instead, you
find him hopping on crutches painstakingly to every single table again and again
to make sure they were fine.
I
came to realise within a few minutes that that's just how Pepenero is. They live
and breathe their food. For a moment I felt I was not in Thailand anymore. Such
cosy, intimate settings eating authentic Italian food hosted by a passionate
Italian family just doesn't come by easily in this part of the world. I was a
bit shocked to find it in Koh Samui, an island more famous for its sinful moon
parties, a place I had been trying to avoid for the past 6 years.
Finally
when Paolo came to us, we simply asked him to choose 3 dishes for us to his
liking, and he did not leave without explaining in detail how the dishes would
be prepared. All of us lost track at some point, but that's just because we were
so confident that we didn't bother to pay attention anymore.
 |
|
Managed to coax some Parma ham and Mozarella out of them
as we waited for our food |
When
the dishes came, we were pretty blown away.
 |
|
Home-made Gnocchi with asparagus cream, clams and
asparagus |
Personally,
I have not eaten Gnocchi or any other pasta prepared like this. The mix of
fragrant asparagus and fresh clams was so incredibly good. A dish I might never
forget.
 |
|
Home-made Bigoli with Italian Sausage Ragu, red wine and
fennel seeds |
Bigoli
is a bigger form of Spaghetti, suitable for pairing with a robust ragu sauce.
This was also an excellent dish, with a familiar name but tasting pleasantly
unfamiliar.
 |
|
Ribeye Tagliata style with
shallots |
It
is difficult for me to judge this dish because I have never eaten beef so rare.
It was just very slightly seasoned so that we can taste the real flavour of the
meet in every bite. I have to say though, that every element on this dish you
see was very well executed, potatoes and vegetables included.
 |
|
Home-made Limoncello before we left, so sweet but so
strong, I nearly did a cartwheel after downing the
shot |
Don't
get me wrong. I am not about to make a conclusive judgement on Pepenero after
just 1 visit. The food was not perfect (beef too rare for me, dessert a little
too sweet too late into the night) but it never is, no matter where we go.
I
feel extremely compelled to write this simply because I believe that regardless
of what we feel, the food is perfect for Paolo. He will only serve what he feels
is flawless to every single diner every single time. That is how Pepenero is, in
their own time, dish by dish made from the heart, diner by diner whom he will
get to know by heart.
 |
|
Paolo and I |
Keep
up your good work Paolo. It was a pleasure to be your guest. You won't see me
much, but my promise to you is to appear in front of you whenever I land on the
island.
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